Famous for being the filming location of the third season of The White Lotus, one of my favorite satirical TV shows. I booked a beachfront hotel to enjoy the ocean and start winding down after the excitement of Chiang Mai.
I booked 3 nights at Escape Beach Resort, which I proudly did not leave. Can you blame me? Ok well thats not entirely true, I did forget my e-reader on the plane… and had to venture back to the airport to retrieve it. My co-worker had told me not to bring it, she said I wouldn’t have time to use it. Karma. I didn’t need it, I didn’t need to spend the time retrieving it. At least the airport is an amazing place to visit.
Here are some images from the resort.
It was perfect, I debated booking some trips to go snorkeling and go on a hike, but I instantly realized I was tired and I wanted to enjoy the location. My days were spent poolside, swimming in the ocean, eating pad Thai for lunch and then reading. I ordered a happy hour cocktail and one final night swim. Rinse and Repeat. Bliss.
Since I didn’t leave my resort, the only other notable experience worth mentioning (also as seen on the White Lotus) was the open airport, which offered free snacks and had the coolest outdoor spaces.
Koh Samui is a place I want to return to; this small sliver was an appetizer, but I’d easily come back for another week to see more.
I realized I lived a hundred lives while in Chiang Mai and decided the daily sips needed their own spotlight! Before heading to the city, I did a bit of research and had a list of places I wanted to see because of the intricate architecture and vibes, and also found some jems by happenstance.
Akha Ama
I had seen this coffee shop posted about on some travel blog at some point. I wanted to go mostly for the aesthetics. It’s got this modern industrial look to it, high ceilings and a large u-shaped concrete coffee bar. I ordered an orange-coffee flavored drink and carrot cake pastry. I could have been in there all day—but it was NYE, and I needed to decompress and get ready for the night out. Akha Ama wins for industrial feel and tasty coffee.
Chiang Mai Cafe Culture
Fern Forest Cafe
The Fern Forest Café. This was the café of my dreams. Well, not exactly. It was better. It was the middle of December, and I was parked in the middle of a lush courtyard-style café, koi fish swimming excitedly next to my seat as I ordered matcha and a hearty breakfast. People watched. The café was nearly full; giant white cups of coffee or colorful fruit smoothies were passed to the patrons. I eavesdropped on two friends at the table to the left of me. “This has been the most epic trip ever.” I smiled, happy to hear they were having a good time. I was also a bit saddened not to have anyone to discuss the trip with. Oh well, I pulled out my printed manuscript and set of markers and began my review. Chiang Mai is known for having great coffee and interesting locations. This one wasn’t on my list, but I was thrilled I ended up there.
Fohhide
This place was on my list. After feeling a bit overstimulated I took a solo trip to this cafe with a notebook to journal about my experiences thus far. This is was a really cool find, nestled in the trendy Nimman neighborhood, Fohhide I enjoyed some reprieve from the social and desision making aspects of travel. What a sweet, slow morning. I spent the rest of the day shopping, and bought a cute pastel colored crochet coin purse in the shape of a rooster.
Sotto Matcha
I love me a thick green smooth matcha. Sometimes when you need a gentler caffeine fix, and green tea is the ticket! The barista took their time with this one, I stood by marveled at the slow pressing of the powdered green stuff stiffing into the round clay bowl and mixing until it’s a ninja turtle green. A pour of oat milk and all together into a plastic cup, ready for my turned-on tastebuds! If you’re a matcha lover, Sotta Matcha is the place.
I like to plan some of my must-do’s and then other days, get lost, and find hidden jems. Here are some final snaps of coffee and drinks from the trip!
If I return, I really want to visit the following cafes aswell:
I arrived in Chiang Mai exhausted by the liveliness of Bangkok. It was a quick flight to the city. At the airport, I had to purchase a second ticket because mine was written in the shortened version of my name. Damn autofill. The airline said they would have corrected it had I warned them at least 24 hours in advance. I call this the cost of ADHD. I had planned out my entire trip in one sitting, and even though I had printed out all the flight tickets and hotel locations to be safe, I didn’t bother reading them. Oops. Lesson learned. Maybe.
I chose to stay at The Social Club for two reasons. First off, the social aspect: I was in an apartment-style building meant for digital nomads. I envisioned myself joining them in the computer room furiously working away on my book. I also hoped to make some friends as I was staying over the Christmas and NYE break.
The second reason was the cost. The room was very affordable. Anyways, back to the first day. My flight was early in the morning, so I was unable to check in. I left my suitcase at the front desk and googled a nearby café. I have had the pleasure of being in so many neat coffee shops, I made a whole separate blog post about them! Which is linked here.
The Social Club Chiang Mai
The next morning, I woke up early to beat the heat and took a taxi to the university area, where there was a reservoir and a mountain view. And running paths that did not involve traffic. Ah, this would do. Oh, did I forget they drive and walk on the other side of the road? Of course I did. I corrected the course about halfway through. Soon I was soaring, sweating, and hopefully jet lag poured out of me. Conveniently, another beautiful café was at the end of my run where I had been dropped off. I ordered a green juice and waited for my ride. I spied on the people alone at their computers, wondering what they were working on, feeling a bit guilty I had lugged my laptop with me, but hadn’t used it to look at my manuscript.
Ang Kaew Reservoir
Back at the apartment, it was crowded; a new group of people had arrived. Even though I was not my freshest, I introduced myself to everyone. The staff was organizing an afternoon craft; would I like to join? I am terrible at drawing, but I wanted to spend more time with the friendly group of people in front of me. Sure.
The craft instructor was missing. A homeless man had been bitten by a dog, and she had taken him to the hospital to ensure she was looked after. I knew a girl from our group, whom I’d met earlier, was an artist and nominated her to take over. She was perfect for the job. A natural instructor, the best kind too. One that sets out a few narrow guidelines and gives you artistic freedom. We searched for something we’d like to copy, then traced it out onto a card. She brought down a set of her own paints and brushes in case we wanted to experiment with them, as well as the crayons provided. In a place like Thailand where consumption is easy and inexpensive, it felt good to slow down and create something. It also felt good to be surrounded by people with whom it was easy to bond. We all seemed to love traveling and meeting new people. I chose the perfect place.
As I continued making my handmade Christmas card, ideas filled my mind. There were so many things to see and do in Chiang Mai. The night markets, the elephant sanctuaries, the cooking classes, the lady-boy shows, the hikes, and the day trips. I liked the sounds of everything. All of a sudden, two weeks felt like there wasn’t enough time to do it all. I began taking down phone numbers, screenshots of restaurants, and things to do. My brain was making a schedule for the next few days, none of which included writing. At that point I gave up. I realized that I wasn’t sure I would ever come back to Chiang Mai. I would work on my book when I was back in my less stimulating hometown, where several feet of snow was currently piling up in my front yard.
I let myself off the hook; I accepted all the invitations to markets, dinners, and tours I could, but still squeezed in affordable massages, of course!
I enjoyed meeting everyone. A young girl, Oti, from Romania, had found a studio at Northlab Dance where she would take private hip-hop classes. Luckily, she allowed me to join in, and some of my greatest memories are driving on the back of a scooter while the sun faded to our hip-hop class where our Thai teacher Fern shouted “Let’s go” and “5,6,7,8!” and we danced like no one was watching. Because no one was, and it was awesome! Since returning to Edmonton, hip hop has become a regular part of my routine.
Then there is Daniel, who excelled at organizing group meals. Grab lunch orders or lead the way to highly rated dining spots. He is a foodie; his greatest pleasure is to excite his taste buds. He was also great at gathering people to play board games. He renewed my love of playing Splendor, and I also purchased a set of Blokus. As exciting as travel can be, it can also be exhausting, and it was nice to have time to slow down and play games instead of constantly absorbing new sights and stimulations. Dan, although claiming to be introverted, was constantly in the common area, curious about how people spent their days and wishing them well as they set out. He enjoyed waking up early to beat the heat and get lost in the streets, picking up a snack or two to bring on his journey back.
Sabina, a Hungarian girl with fiery red hair and cat-eye-lined green eyes, was always warm and sweet to be around, like a sister you’d always wished for. There was something whimsical in everything she did and said. She was a cool girl who practiced ballet back in London and frequented cafés with other artists, hiding behind shopping bags and sketching unknown patrons.
I was very spoiled with the unique individuals I’d met during my stay in Chiang Mai. I was not expecting to meet so many creative and open-minded individuals.
Here is us; we spent a lovely day starting off with brunch, a visit to the artists market followed by a two-hour massage, and of course more eating! Love these humans! PS: We are all Capricorns; the goats know how to spend a travel day!
We visited Baang Kan Wat, which was super busy; it has several unique places to buy or make handcrafted jewelry, pottery, or paintings. We didn’t make anything, but I bought a cute handmade book market and a sell coloring sheet. We stopped for dessert and a Thai Tea, a traditional black tea with spices and condensed milk. Oti was on a mission to find the best one in Thailand and highly rated the one in the artists’ village. I could have lived in this village, making arts and crafts all day long, sipping on Thai tea… might have to come back!
The Capricorns’ Day Out!
Here are some highlights from my two weeks:
Cooking class with the Passion Food Cooking School. We started the morning at a local market in Chinatown, going over the list of ingredients we would use for the recipes. Here I stocked up on spices and tea. I love a local market. We made 7 dishes that day; I was stuffed. My favorite was the Tom Yum Soup. A sweet-and-spicy combination of flavors I’m excited to make when I return home. Maybe. Or maybe it’s something I’ll order when I go for Thai food.
The Lady Boy Show at Ram Show Bar
These queens nailed it. Absolute Fire. The dancers had amazing costumes and an even better stage performance; they jumped into the crowd, kicking their legs in the air and hitting patrons. Their costumes and makeup were so immaculate, I was so impressed! This show was easily one of my favorite nights out in Chiang Mai.
Market Life is the Best Life!
The Night Markets- where I bought a zillion scarves and bookmarks for my book club! And a big highlight was waiting in line for the famous “Roti Lady,” who has a Michelin-starred roti-making stand. I got the chocolate, cheese, and banana one. Worth the wait! I also purchased a handcrafted notebook with my name inscribed on the cover, a handmade crochet doll, and a painting of a temple I visited on a hike. Oh, and not pictured here, but a woman told my fortune with a unique set of tarot cards that I’ve never seen before. I like to pull my own tarot cards. The fortune said my life would really be picking up speed this year; boy, was she on the nose!
These markets are so fun; you can spend all night shopping and eating. There was also a whole street dedicated to people getting back and shoulder massages, while still having the ability to people watch, or scroll their phones, to each their own.
The Coconut Day Market
The Coconut Market- where I had the best coconut icecream and a cheesy baked potato with corn and dumplings. This market is only open Friday through Sunday, so plan ahead. Ther
Yoga, where I was taught to do my first headstand. Also, the yoga instructors were top-notch. I could tell they were so passionate about teaching. One of them kept yelling at me, “Seesta, Seesta, you strong, come every day you get better, I promise!” And then she slapped my shoulder. I love Thai people; they treat you like family. For me, travel can be overstimulating, so getting a yoga session in helps ground me and stretch from the long travel days 🙂 The yoga instructors really had a passion for teaching; they had an Indian man teach them to become instructors, and the way they led the classes, well, let’s just say, yoga in North America is very commercialized, and I was fortunate enough to find this place. It was recommended by a Brazilian couple I met at the Coconut Market (thanks, friends!).
The Monk’s trail hike. We assembled most of our apartment peeps and headed to the straight-uphill 5 KM jaunt. This hike was amazing, super sweaty and we were met with a beautiful view of the town and a shiny gold temple at the top. So fricken cool! (I ended up buying a beautiful painting at the night market of the gold temple).
I booked a Reiki session at a nearby Spa. A luxurious slice of downtime before the evening festivities began. The spa range from cheap, $40 CAD for a 2-hour massage or $230 for 4 hours of massage, facial, body scrub, and body mud mask! Oh, and they also have several massage places where female ex-prisoners provide massages at an affordable rate. I went and was not disappointed. The bed was a bit stiff, but the lady did a good job.
NYE in Chiang Mai was unreal. We started the night by ordering pizzas, the perfect base for a few cocktails. We started walking towards the downtown square, stopping into a bar for a drink and playing a round of darts. By the time we were downtown, the streets were full of people; it was incredible, from babies to the elderly, everyone was out to celebrate the new year. It was a vibe. After a large display of glistening fireworks, a DJ took the stage, and we headed over to dance. When the crowds began to clear away, we headed to Niman and found a local bar where we danced. I really like the street-style mix. I saw a lot of girls wearing sneakers and jeans; they made casual look cool.
Screenshot
The elephants at Chai Lai Orchid. I might need another post to describe just this! It’s an ethical elephant sanctuary where you spend the entire day, feeding, hiking, and bathing with elephants. I have a tattoo of an elephant on my foot; it’s a good luck charm!
I regret that I only spent two weeks here. I could have easily been here for a month; in fact, I might come back. There are still interesting coffee shops I’d like to visit, and the yoga classes and street markets are too good to pass up. There is cheap accommodation to book and tons of expat meet-up groups. In fact, friends I made might be going back this winter, so there’s still a chance to return and knock off the rest of Chiang Mai’s hidden treasures.
It’s common to hire a driver in Thailand for the entire day. A girl I met at the TSC, Nicole, had already done some research, and we chose to see the highest point in Chiang Mai (note: it was cold! Bring a sweater), visit a temple, and stop for a waterfall lunch.
Final Thoughts on Chiang Mai
Creating this post made me eager to return; I could repeat each market, massage, and food or coffee stop and still be impressed. Chiang Mai overdelivered on everything; the pictures don’t do the city justice. It’s an experience I promise you need to have!
The first thing that hit me was the warm, humid air, a welcome reprieve from the dry cold air of the Canadian Prairies. The hotel had already sent me a WhatsApp notification, allowing me to use a private driver to meet me at the bustling airport. I arrived in the second week of December. It was crowded, but it would become more so during the holiday season. I was excited. I was also too hot, having worn a sweatsuit for the planeride.
Even early in the morning, there was traffic. The place had to consume a lot of gasoline, was my first thought.
I arrived at the Davis Hotel, too early to check in, so I left my bags and began to wander the streets. Instantly, my adrenaline spiked. Crossing the street felt like a game of Frogger, the one where a frog has to navigate through traffic to avoid being smooshed. No one had warned me about this. Startled, I ended up jumping into a shuttle across from my hotel that was headed to the nearby mall.
The exterior of the Emporium shopping mall was decorated with lavish, silvery Christmas trees and decor. The holidays would look a little different without snow and hot chocolate this year!
The mall was closed, so I ended up finding a nearby cafe, ordered a strawberry matcha, and headed to a park that was conveniently across the street. I used the pedway from the train station, with an overpass; luckily, no dodging traffic.
I spent the morning people-watching. There were joggers, nannies babysitting children in the park, and people doing calisthenics workouts. Since the heat is an issue, Bangkok has done a really great job at creating aesthetically appealing shops and cafes for people to socialize and escape the heat! Once the mall opened, I found local clothing stores and bought some fun pieces: a cute blue-striped skirt, a pastel canvas bag from a local designer, and a soft pink linen set. If you’re a TikToker, I have the haul on my site!
Bangkok, Day Two: I Slept, I Swam, and I got a Smoothie
On the second day, the jet lag hit me hard, and I slept in until the late afternoon. The pools were in the wing of the hotel next to mine, so I filled my bag with a book, sunscreen, and found a strawberry smoothie to accompany me. I love swimming, besides, I needed some R&R because I had booked a food tour for the evening and didn’t want to be too tired for it. Oh yeah, and I saw a Korean Salon, Spring Salon, and got the hotel to book me in for a haircut and hair treatment. I was so cool! They gave me a heavenly head massage and wrapped my head in a bag filled with steam. I left the salon with shiny, smooth hair! I love that aesthetics in Asia are a fraction of the price back home, so if you are planning to visit, save your salon visits for here!
PS: The Davis hotel, where I stayed, was not fancy, but it was huge, clean, and quite affordable by North American standards.
I tried not to do too much planning before I left, but I also didn’t want to spend my precious vacation time deliberating over plans. One of the tours I booked was a night food tour via Tuk-Tuk! We ripped through the city, stopping to eat… way too much food. My favorite thing was a noodle-and-egg dish cooked in a coal vat in some random back alley. We ended up eating our final desserts in the lively Chinatown district, which is a must in the evenings. Also, we visited the flower market, and the tour definitely exceeded my expectations.
Bangkok Day 3: Trains, Canals, and Temples
The next day, the hotel had arranged a day tour for me. The first stop was the Maeklong Railway Market. My driver dropped me off, and I was left to explore. I wandered through the stalls and ended up with fresh coconut ice cream and, later, a large coconut. I was saving my shopping for my final leg of the trip, so I didn’t buy anything else. Instead, I browsed the aisles and bought the best thing, food! I stayed until the famous train pulled through the center of the market. It was wild to see the shop owners pack everything up so quickly and start shouting at the tourists to back up.
The next stop was another touristy favorite. The Damnoen Saduak District. This is also considered a “tourist trap”, however, I was happy to be off my feet after a long morning of market wandering. I bought a cold beer and had the boat to myself, letting the driver speed me through the district’s vendors and homeowners.
Once we had arrived back in Bangkok, it was time to visit two temples. I only made it to one. The benefit of having a private driver was that I didn’t need to follow anyone’s schedule but my own. In the first temple, I relished the quiet, gorgeous temple where no talking was allowed. I skipped the second temple visit when I saw a nearby Michelin Restaurant. I reasoned Thailand might be a place I visit again someday. It was time to slow down.
People always question why I travel alone. Isn’t it lonely? I’ve heard several times. Sure, I can be; it can also be a drag traveling with the wrong person. The truth was, I didn’t have great expectations for Thailand, other than to enjoy myself, and so far I was doing just that. I was not on a schedule, and I was surrounded by so many people that I didn’t feel alone. Well, that was a lot for my first 3 days in Thailand, the next post I’ll try to summarize two weeks spent in magical Chiang Mai.
UNANCHORED EVE 